Aside from its close ties with Bulgari heritage, which exploits the expressive power of the Parentesi (parenthesis) graphic sign, the name of the new line underscores its inspiration and link with the concept of “cocktail ring”, construed as a showy, eccentric ring set with large, coloured stones. It was given this name because it was originally worn at such events as openings or cocktail parties. It seems that the term was coined for the first time during the Prohibition era in the United States, when attending parties where alcoholic beverages were served – in violation of the law – at secret, elite locations was considered very trendy. By gesticulating every time a sip was taken from one’s glass, the lady wearing the jewel amplified the visual impact of the stone, which reflected her own personality. The popularity of these rings reached its peak in the 1950’s and 1960’s, when high-society parties became extremely sought-after events, even if they had since lost their initial cachet of being “prohibited.”
For this reason, the jewels featured in this collection are striking cocktail rings. Paying tribute to the timeless allure of these rings, Bulgari perfectly interprets the demands of contemporary jewellery, while continuing to use motifs and elements typical of the brand’s style.
The rings are set with faceted coloured stones that are cut ad hoc, after being carefully selected for their vivid colours. The gems are mounted in original claw settings that use the Parentesi sign as an integral part of the design. This historic motif, which is the basis of the famous modular jewellery by the same name that was created in the 1980’s, is used for the first time as a structural, bearing element. The stylised parentheses that embrace the gem are proposed in the elegant and distinctive form that characterises their openwork and slightly elongated structure, the fruit of a recent stylistic evolution.
The diamond pavé further enhances the precious setting, adding sparkle to the bright, intense colours of the main stones. The soft, delicate forms of the shank create a play of contrasts with the prongs, characterised by clean lines and dimensions that are carefully proportioned to those of the large 20 millimetre gems they support.
Colour and the Parentesi sign are also key elements for the other pieces that complete the collection: creations that are emblematic of Bulgari style and endowed with a strong personality, like the rings.
Each model features refined aesthetic details developed from a sophisticated design with modern lines and glamour that express the jewel’s versatility and visibility. The varied palette of colours, combined with the generous use of pink gold, is translated into a line expressing freshness and femininity.
The Parentesi Cocktail jewels range from elegant pendants and precious necklaces to earrings and bracelets offered in various sizes and models that are both versatile and easy to wear, either as a set or individually. This rich assortment reaches one of its highest expressions in a refined, multicoloured sautoir in pink gold, where the combination of gems reflects the selection of stones used for the entire collection.
The personality of this line is expressed through the up-to-date, refined and modern tones of amethyst, blue topaz, green quartz and citrine quartz that, either alone or in harmonious combinations, interspersed with smaller stones and illuminated by decorative diamond elements, create suggestive colour contrasts.
In some creations, white gold is used instead of pink gold in order to further enhance certain nuances, while the cuts of the stones and their setting are the result of meticulous study aimed at exalting the density of the gems‘ colour and generating interesting light effects. The allure of each ornament lies in the combination of the Parentesi sign with a spare design typical of Bulgari. The openwork motif is repeated in the setting of the main stones and is often used to support the bi-convex faceted gems. Here the setting surrounds and holds the stone, leaving the back part free, to generate a transparent and brilliant effect that fully exalts its colour.
The collection is rounded out by a limited series of precious cocktail rings. The Parentesi sign is used yet again in the setting. Its characteristic openwork reveals the beauty of the gems sent inside it and illuminated by the diamond pavé: from green tourmaline to coral, from aquamarine to rubellite, from morganite to peridot. The result is translated into highly dramatic rings that, perfectly in keeping with Bulgari tradition, represent unique examples of handcraftsmanship and design.
The new Parentesi Cocktail collection will be available in Bulgari stores starting from April 2009. The limited edition rings will be available on a rotating basis at selected stores.