Chapter One—First Collection by Maîtres du Temps

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The elegant, streamlined form, innovative indications, and ergonomic functions of Chapter One belie the incredible complexity of its unique movement and the compound-curve sophistication of its case.

Chapter One’s three Masters—Mr. Christophe Claret, Mr. Roger Dubuis, and Mr. Peter Speake-Marin—have come together to craft a horological work of art, both inside and out. Long, flowing compound curves traverse the case, imparting a sense of nobility and power without leaving a trace of the complexity involved. The ease of both reading and adjusting Chapter One’s many indications disguises the fact that this is a world-first combination of complications crafted from 558 components.

No wristwatch before Chapter One has ever featured a tourbillon movement incorporating a mono-pusher column wheel chronograph, retrograde date, retrograde GMT, and phase of the moon and day of the week indications displayed on their own distinctive rolling bars. Efficiently transmitting power 90° to the two rollers and ensuring that they work simultaneously with the time, date, GMT, and chronograph was an immense technical challenge. That the challenge was met and surpassed is further testament to Chapter One’s enormously talented team.

A tour of the dial reveals central coaxial hours, minutes, and chronograph 60-second counter, tourbillon and day of the week roller at 6 o’clock; retrograde GMT at 9 o’clock; 60-minute chronograph counter and precision moon phase roller at 12 o’clock; and retrograde date at 3 o’clock.

Meticulous attention to every minute detail throughout the design and execution of all facets of Chapter One’s development has resulted in a timepiece of exceptional presence and refinement. The harmoniously integrated rolling bars, for example, had to be both large enough to be easily read and small enough to be ultra-light and homogeneous with the case. Scintillating, laser-pierced moon and stars on the outer roller of the moon phase indication add to its stellar elegance.

Myriad details make Chapter One a timepiece that richly rewards a closer look, from the small window between the day roller and the tourbillon, which allows a unique view of the superbly finished gyrating tourbillon cage, to the series of mirror-polished angled surfaces catching and reflecting light and bringing the multi-level dial to life. Even the locking corrector pushers are formed from curves meeting at an imaginary point so as to perfectly follow the graceful flow of the case.

It is not by mere chance that the bold and curvaceous three-dimensionality of Chapter One is more reminiscent of a streamlined supercar than a wristwatch; one can envision that this timepiece runs as smoothly as the contours of its beautiful body indicate. The story of Chapter One is one of glorious complexity in celebration of the men behind it.

Manual-wind mechanical movement, one-minute tourbillon, mono-pusher chronograph, retrograde date indicator, retrograde GMT indicator, day of the week indication on roller, patented precise moon phase indication on roller.

Displays:
– Central hands indicating hours and minutes
– Central chronograph counterpoised second hand
– 60-minute counter at 12 o’clock
– Retrograde date at 3 o’clock
– Retrograde GMT at 9 o’clock
– One-minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock
– Day of the week indication on roller at 6 o’clock
– Patented precise moon phase indication on roller at 12 o’clock

Functions:
– Two-position winding crown: pushed in to wind the watch; pulled out to set the

Time
– Chronograph: start/stop/return-to-zero function activated by single pusher in the crown

Correctors:
– Date corrector at 2 o’clock
– Day of the week corrector at 4 o’clock
– Moon phase corrector at 8 o’clock
– GMT corrector at 10 o’clock

Calibre SHC02:
– Dimensions: 51.3 mm x 31.6 mm
– Number of components: 558
– Number of jewels: 58
– Power reserve: 60 hours
– Tourbillon rotation: 60 seconds
– Balance frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)

Case:
– 18K red gold
– Number of components: 104
– Dimensions: 62.60 mm x 45.90 mm
– Sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating
– Display back: sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating
– High polish and satin finishes on compound-curve surfaces
– Correctors with integrated locking system

Dial:
– 18K gold
– Number of components: 7
– Multi-faceted and beveled

– Printed Roman numerals
– Engine-turned sun-ray guilloche
– Red counterpoised chronograph hand

– Blue sword-shapedhands forchronograph counter,hour, minute, date, and GMT

Rollers:
– Day barrel: anodizedanticorodal finished aluminum
– Moon phase barrel: anodized anticorodal finished aluminum inside a matte anodized – – cover with laser-pierced moon and stars
– Window between day roller and tourbillon

Strap:
– Alligator strap with 18K red gold deployant buckle

ZANECHAT ODPOVĚĎ

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